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Journal of Benajah Jay Antrim, 1849

Benajah Jay Antrim (1819 to 1903). Philadelphia to Tampico and the Sierra Madre, Mexico. February 1 to March 19, 1849. Transcribed by Legible: first pass, unedited, before the human check of names. Page photographs: Library of Congress, Manuscript Division, Benajah Jay Antrim Journals (public domain). Library of Congress item.

People and places mentioned: Tampico, Panuco River, Mexico, Mexican, San Louis Potosi, American, Camargo Company, Colorado Mountains, Laffler, Philadelphia, Gulf of Mexico, Revd D. B. Woods, Aztec, Boston, Mazatlan, Tortugas, United States, Banyan, California, Mr Chase, Mr Sayre, Mr Thompson, New Orleans, Norman, Pacific, Siera Madre, State of Vera Cruz, Villa de Valles, William H. Ogden, A. Fisher, A. McCrellish, A. S. Bates, American Indian, Antrim, Atlantic Ocean, B. Jay. Antrim, Bahama Bar, Bahama Island, Baltimore, Berry Island, British Government, C. H. Jones, C. M. Blake, Camargo, Cape Horn.

Travels &c. in Mexico (Opening of the journal)

Travels &c. in Mexico.

The news of the discovery of Gold in California,
having been confirmed; I resolved in December of 1848.
to leave my profession, and the Monumental city,
and embark upon a Voyage and journey to the renowned
placiers of the new El Dorado of the Pacific.
Circumstances favoring I repaired to Philadelphia
and there made preparations to make the Voyage
of Cape Horn per Ship "Mason".
In Philadelphia I was introduced to Mr William
H. Ogden, with whoom I soon entered into an
agreement to raise a company for California,
by the way of Matamoras, Camargo, Saltileo &c.
in Mexico; to reach Mazatlan on the Pacific
and to proceed from thence by sea to San Francisco.
We advertised in the "Ledger" and "North American"
requesting those desirous of making a Speedy
and agreeable journey via Mexico, to address
"Camargo" at the offices of those respective papers.
This had the desired effect; and we visited the
applicants individually; obtained a Saloon
100. Chesnut Street; and Soon organized a company
of respectable and enterprising gentlemen, [to who]
who entered with Spirit in the proposed ex-
-pedition. The Meeting elected Wm H. Ogden,
[illegible] a [illegible] Antrim Secretary.

The Camargo Company (Philadelphia, before sailing)

The number of our company was limited to 40. and
though Many aplications were Made; we maintained
our limits, by admitting no More, believing it to
be advisable not to enter Mexico with too large
an armed company, presuming they Might mis-
-apprehend the object of our mission.
The Meeting adopted the name of the "Camargo
Company". and at first determined upon the
Northern route through Mexico; but Subsequently
changed to that of Tampico, San Louis Potosi, &c
for Various important considerations.
Our committees of camp equipage, provisions, &c, were soon
in active Service prepantory to our departure, in the
Brig "Thomas Walter", which our company chartered for
the voyage to Tampico; for the Sum of two thousand
dollars, being an average of $50.00 each for the passage
to Mexico, including the best the Vessel and the
Markets could afford.
The 31st of January 1849. was set as the day of our
departure; but in consequence of some difficulties to
be apprehended in Mexico respecting our Captain's
Manifest of articles Shipped by our company; we were
therefore Unavoidably delayed until the following day,
in order to regulate Matters, agreeable to the
punctileous costoms [illegible] in that [illegible]

Camargo Company (The roll of members)

Departure from Philadelphia (February 1st, 1849)

Departure from Philadelphia.

February 1st 1849. Snow, rain, sleet, and variable cold winds;
notwithstanding the inclemency of the weather,
there were thousands congregated upon the wharves
to witness our departure, at 9 A.M.
Our company repaired with arms, in two lines
upon the quarter deck, and with guns, and pistols,
discharged the parting salute.
One of our company Mr Robinson, followed with a
proposition of "three cheers to our country." to
which we responded. "Three cheers to the dear
bonnie lassies we leave behind." to which we
responded Simultaneously. and "Three cheers to
the city of Brotherly Love". to which we responded.
The Citizens then responded - "Three cheers
to the Camargo Company the Pioneers of the Pacific":
which was followed by cheers for individuals in
our company; until the last emblems of affection
waved their silent adieu, to Many an aching
heart, who Saw long years of absence, or perhaps
their final Separation.
At 9. A.M. the steam tug "Wave", came beside
us, and before evening we cast anchor off New
castle; in order to obtain articles left behind,
which were entered upon the Captains Manifest.
The matter was regulated by Mr Thompson our C[illegible]

Camargo Company roll, continued (The roll ends at forty; the brig leaves the river)

First night at sea (February 3rd, 1849)

to those who May not, before, have been innitiated into
the healthy excercises, required, by a Sudden introduction
to a gale upon the Ocean. We travelled rapidly
during this day, and at evening found the temperature
considerably Moderated, added to which was a clear
and really beautiful Moonlight night at Sea; whilst
our brig bounded Majestically away upon the
long Ocean Swells, The Spray Dash'd at
Spells, upon our bowsprit; its Showery foam,
the phosphoric gems of the deep, traced our
foaming pathway with Sparkling aroras,
and the Moon lent a flitting beauty to the
dashing white caps, as they chased each other
swiftly before the unpersued winds, joining
the wild Reveldry of old Ocean, in Songs of low,
murmuring thunder; Added to this and Still
more beautiful, (as Sang by our party,) was that
of the "Star Spangled banner", - how brilliant are
these gems, when the voice of Nature takes part
in them; when the Ocean lifts up her notes of thunder
in harmony with the lonely Mariner; and when too,
one leaves his home and loved ones, to roam in some
distant and less congenial clime.
Our Barque dashed on gallantly; whilst the Merry
Songs of the happier ones arose in Strange harmony

Sunday at sea (February 4th and 5th, 1849)

with the whistling winds that playfully tuned
their Ocean Songs amid our rigging.

Feb. 4th. (Sunday.) A clear Skye, a mild atmosphere, and a quiet
sea; with the Morning Sun, rising Silently upon its
horizon; peering Majestically through fantastic mists,
that seemingly attend only his presence. Who, has not
beheld a Sun rise, in Chromatic beauty upon the Ocean?
At 10. A.M. a meeting for worship, was called upon the
quarter deck, by the Revd D. B. Woods, & C. M. Blake.
attend by the Camargo Company &c, and addressed by
D. B. Wood, "To those who go down upon the Mighty
deep". being a copy of an address delivered in Boston,
to Young Men emigrating to California, and the
choice of good Society. Our progress to day has
averaged only a two knot breeze; which afforded Some of
the company an opportunity of catching Dog Sharks, &c.
The evening closed with clouds, wind, and rain.

Feb 5th. To day our gallant brig drives Swiftly o'er Mountain
billows, which by noon has changed to a fierce gale,
and by evening enveloped us in the realities of a
Storm at Sea, whilst running under a Stay-Sail, only.
We judged the perpendicular height of the billows,
to range on the average, from 20 to 30 feet;
with intervening Vallies, at times of at least
one hundred feet in width. Such was its

Crossing the Gulf Stream (February 6th to 9th, 1849)

violence, that it was considered unsafe to remain Much
upon deck; whilst howling Winds, rain, and a high
Sea drove us fearfully through the darkness of night.
Feb. 6th. Morning clear and pleasant, with a heavy rolling sea.
crossed the Gulf Stream, 350 miles East by South of
Charleston, of South Carolina. Saw one Sail, a porpoise,
the nautilus, and Sea weed, all interesting to those
who may be seeking marine Subjects.
Feb 7th. High winds, clouds, and a heavy Sea; with a cool
atmosphere, and winds from the West. Lee rail
running close, dishes dancing Merily, cook out
of humor, and the passengers billious. Spoke
two vessels at noon, bound to the United States.
In Latitude 32. and about 400 miles from Charleston.
At night the Moon rose amid flying clouds, the
air was cool, and the Wind and Spray disagreeable.
Feb. 8th. A mild atmosphere, with light clouds, and a gentle breeze
from the north east. Saw a Ship in Latitude 29°. 40".
passengers, catching Sea-weeds, playing chess, tailoring,
Smoking, conning adventures, with numerous other time
killing amusements, belonging to a voyage by Sea.
Feb 9th. Morning. clear, mild, and accompanied with a gentle
breeze. The day passed pleasantly. Saw flying fish &c.
Passed the evening agreeably by moonlight, accompanying
which were pleasing songs, reminding us of our native land.

Hole in the Wall and the Bahama Bar (February 10th to 13th, 1849)

saturday. Feb 10th. Day clear, and sufficiently warm to make the Shade (only)
agreeable. Breeze Slight, and the Ocean nearly calm; but
towards evening a 5 knot breeze sprung up. At Sun Set a flying
fish came on board and was captured.
Feb 11th. Day clear and hot, but moving briskly towards the Bahama
Island; came in Sight of the light-house, at the "hole in the
wall" at 1/2 past 11. A.M. but having head winds, we
tack'd to and from the land all the afternoon, being un-
-able to enter the gulf of Mexico this day. At 1/2 past
3. P.M. an address was delivered by the Revd D. B. Woods,
Feb 12th. Tack'd to and from the light-house all day. At night
an angry Storm overtook us, So that nothing but the
Stay Sail was exposed to the winds; our vessel pitched
with Such violence that the night was passed
in a very disagreeable manner.
Feb 13th. The Sun rose in gorgeous fleecy clouds of a golden hue.
whilst favorable winds assisted us in passing the
"hole in the Wall", at the Same time outsailing 5
other vessels bound in the Same direction.
Arrived at the Bahama Bar at 12 Meridian, and
crossed it during the afternoon. In places on the
Bar the bottom is distinctly visible, which was said to be
at a debth of from 15 to 30 feet. It appears to be composed
of white Sand, with here and there patches of Sponge.
The color of the water on the bar for (about) the distance

Into the Gulf of Mexico (February 14th, 1849)

of Sixty miles, is between a pea green, and a skye blue, or
nearly an ultra Marine; whilst that of the Atlantic
Ocean, and in the deep waters of the Gulf of Mexico
are of a cast bordering upon an indigo blue.
Passed Berry Island, and saw a number of Small
Sailing craft engaged upon a wrecked vessel.
It was Said, that a colored Gent resides upon this island
who is the posessor of a large estate and several Wives.
The Sun Set amid fantastic clouds, gilded by almost
every variety of Superb colors. A Scene which
excited universal admiration; which though
common in tropical climes, are seldom if ever
to be found in latitudes north of the tropics.
These Southern evening views are frequently diversified
with such brilliant colors, and peculiar forms;
that it is not at all Singular to find almost every
travellor of the tropics, describing them in the most
glowing terms. It is even so, they are exceedingly
beautiful, and infinitely beyond the Artists pencil.
Feb 14th. Temperature Mild, with favorable wind; we are now
persuing a South West, course on the Gulf of Mexico.
Saw a large school of flying-fish, evidently persued by some
larger animals of the great deep. From 50 to 300 feet
appeared to be the average of their flight. Their complex-
-ion is light, and in length from 6 to 12 inches.

Land in sight: Mexico (February 15th to 21st, 1849)

Feb 15th. Day clear and Mild; winds favorable, with a Speed of 10 knots.
Feb 16th. Clear and Warm. lying Still in a calm until 10. A.M. when
a breeze Sprung up and relieved us of its Monotony.
Feb 17th. Day cool. head winds, and a rough sea, with heavy clouds.
Feb. 18th. Day cool. A north wind, with rain, and a high sea. Saw a
large school of porpoises: flying fish, and Sea gulls.
Feb 19th. Day clear, and Mild. winds favorable, whilst Making good time.
Feb. 20th. Day clear and Mild. winds favorable. &c.
Feb 21st. Warm. and clear; whilst Making but a Moderate progress.
discovered Land at 1/2 past 12 P.M. Thus ends our Voyage
to Mexico, and the commencement of an overland tour.

Mexico.

Vide View No.1 in the Panorama.
The coast of Mexico especially in the vicinity of
Tampico ranges in barren Sand hills, of no apparent
value, Sparcely timbered; and only cultivated at long
intervals by the poorer classes. The first appearance of
which is forbidding and Singularly barren. At 4. P.M. The
pilot came on board, and by Sun Set we were anchored at
Tampico which is located on the Panuco River 6 1/2 miles
above its junction with the gulf. Our passage over the bar
at the Mouth of the Panuco River, was effected without any
difficulty, and our entrance to the River quite pleasing.
Vide View No.2. The green foliage of Spring was entirely
developed along its banks, and all Nature had assumed

Landing at Tampico (February 22nd, 1849)

a lively garb. The appearance on either Side whilst ascending
the River, was that of a nearly level country after leaving
the Sand hills in the immediate vicinity of the coast.
Chapparell constituted the undergrowth, whilst Stunted
oaks were abundant, Sometimes densely clustered, though
generally to be found evenly Scattered. The Music of Many
birds enlivened the Scene, and our little Voyage up the
Panuco, highly attractive; and probably the More
enhanced by the Sudden change from our Monotinous
Sea voyage just now completed.
Vide View. No. 3. Having come to Anchor at the Suburbs of
Tampico, we were next visited by the costom house officer,
who examined our pasports from the United States. &c.
We were however, not permitted to go on Shore until the
following day.
Feb. 22nd. Clear and warm. Much like August in the Middle
States. We landed this Morning at 10. O. clock; after
which our brig was anchored within the city limits.
We strolled leisurly in parties through the city, in
order to observe for the first time the peculiarities of
Mexican citizens; a portion of the time being devoted
to passing our baggage &c at the costom house; from
which they were removed to Spacious rooms, rented for
the use of our company. Being now Somewhat pleasantly
Situated, we had sufficient time to Make a More thorough

The Panuco from the bluffs at Tampico (February 23rd, 1849)

explorations of the city and environs of Tampico. At first
our impressions were unfavorable, but as we gradually
became familiar with their costoms, or Mode of living,
language, and dress; so by degrees we became Sufficiently
innutiated to view them with more interest; and in a
more favorable light than at first anticipated.
Feb. 23rd. Vide Views 4. & 5. The Scene refered to by these numbers,
is connected as one panoramic view of that part of
the State of Vera Cruz, bordering the South Side of
the Panuco River, as seen from the River Bluffs
at Tampico. To the left the low hills of the back ground
range generally upon the Margin of the Gulf of Mexico.
Farther off and to the right are seen a range of
Mountains, upon the Summet of which we are in-
-formed are to be found very extensive remains of
an ancient Aztec city; as described by Norman of
New Orleans; in his work on Central America.
Upon the Middle ground is seen an extensive Lagoona,
or Lake, whilst the River Panuco Makes up our
foreground, and the Rio Tamosee, joins it away to the
right. Two Small Landings May be seen on the
oposite Shore, at which place a large quantity of
Stone coal is at present deposited. The Panuco
River is here apparently 3/4ths of a mile in width.
Whilst the Lagoon beyond has a breadth of 2 miles.

City of Tampico (The river front, plazas and houses)

City of Tampico.

Vide Views. 6 & 7. For one Real, (12 1/2. cts) in company with a friend,
I crossed the River Panuco to the State of Vera Cruz,
and after returning from an extensive ramble, to the
coal landing before described, I Sketched the River
front of Tampico as per plates 6 & 7. To a citizen
of the United States, it at once presents an oriental
appearance. The city is provided with two plaza's
or public squares, the principal of which is Seen facing
the South and fronting the Panuco River. Whilst the
other is located back, and north of the River plaza.
upon it are located two Military posts, and a Small
plain catholic church. The Streets intersect each
other generally at right angles. The majority of
[the] buildings excepting those facing the River, are but
one Story in height, and usually without chimnies,
window-glass, boards, or brick; being generally constructed
either of bamboo, [mud] or Stone; which are often
plastered, and Sometimes painted. The Majority
of their windows, are Supplied with wooden or
iron grates, in the place of Sash and glass; it
being desirable to admit the free circulation
of air in a warm climate like Mexico.
The usual flat roof, So universal in the interior
of Mexico, is partly Supplanted in Tampico
by American Costoms. The Suburbs are almost

Tampico (The main plaza and the silver warehouse)

Tampico.

entirely composed of Bamboo cabins thatched with the
leaves of the palmeto. The city is located upon an
undulating ground and almost Surrounded by water.
there being a lake of Some interest, bordering its north-
-ern suburbs. Upon the whole joining the Many tropi-
-cal plants, Such as the Maguay, (magae) Cactus,
Cocanut, Alamo, and other pretty Shade trees, with
the varieties of flower, and all the foliage of Spring,
added to the lively colors and general neatness of the
native dwellings; it gives to Tampico an air
of pleasantness which is at any time acceptable
to the Mariner or casual travellor.
Vide View. No 8. The main Plaza, (or public square) is paved with
limestone, in the centre of which there is a circular
pediment rising in a flight of Six Steps; upon the
Summet of which there was once a Monument
erected to Santa Anna. It has however been
destroyed Since in their revolutionary events.
Upon the right, and on the north Side of the plaza,
is located the Silver [warehouse] of S. Louis Potosi.
the property of the British Government; large
trains of Silver are annually freighted from the
Mines of the interior to this establishment.
Beside the Flag Staff is the dwelling of Mr Chase
our American council.

Tampico (Market, merchandise and the custom house)

Tampico.

Market. The principal Market of Tampico is held each morning of the
week upon the South west corner of the Main plaza. (plate. 6.)
It is usually Supplied with an abundance of tropical fruits.
but in other respects inferior to our American Markets.
It is commonly Supplied with Beef, Fowl, Fish, Eggs, Cheese,
Beans, Frejoles, Peas, Yams, Tomatoes, &c. with Lemons, Oranges,
Bannanas, Plantains, Sugar Cane, Coca Nuts, Pine Apples;
and other Native fruits, and Vegitables at cheap rates.
Merchandise. Almost every article kept by the Grocers,
Dry Goods Merchant, Hardware houses, and other
merchantile, as well as Mechanical establishments
of the States, May be found here; but in Some
instances extravigantly dear. In the Mechanical
department they are greatly deficient.
Custom House. The custom house is located (nearly) in
the centre of the Main plaza; facing a covered
pier upon the river; Coffee, Sugar, Rice, Tea; and
Tobacco, with Some other articles are virtually pro-
-hibited by their exhorbitant duties of import.
As an instance our party purchased the essence
of tea in Philad.a to the value of $20. 00. and on
landing it at the Costom House of Tampico, the
duties upon it was over $30. 00. The Officers are
generally exceedingly punctilleous, polite, and exact
in their observance of ettiquett; and at the Same

Tampico (The Prefect and our passports)

Tampico.

time in many instances not incapable of bribery.
Prefecture. The chief Alcalde or Prefect; acts partly in the
capacity of Mayor of the city. Before him it was requi-
-site for our company to appear, which was done soon
after landing. We found ourselves in the presence of a
tall, dignified Compadre, with a thin crab apple
visage; who for the fee of $1.00 each, Signed our
passports for the interior. It was well understood
that although he professed great friendship, he had
not as much as one grain of affection for the
American people, notwithstanding the citizens
of Tampico openly expressed themselves to the
contrary, in the open face of his armed protectorate;
and unpopular authority vested in him by Herara.
the President. He was not therefore the people's
choice, nor did he even Spare them from the iron rod.
One Specimen of his friendship towards our company,
(alias dollars) was early exemplified in his Sixteen
dollar plot, in which he was Seen playing the
Ghost in the following Manner with many of our
company. A billiard Saloon open on the plaza, was
surrounded Secretly by a party of Soldiers, concealed in the
adjoining houses, &c. whilst the dignified Prefect in com-
-pany with another posse of Soldiers and guards, fortified
himself in the nocturnal Shades of the back Yard.

Tampico (An evening at the billiard saloon)

Tampico.

Having prepared himself valiently for the onset, an officer
of rank was next commissioned by his excellency to visit
our company at their rooms; and to extend a pressing invi-
-tation to the Americans to visit the billiard room,
for an evenings entertainment. being Somewhat inqui-
-sitive, a large part of our company accompanied the
officer to the Saloon, without perceiving the design.
Feeling but little interest in Such Matters I concluded
not to go, and thus escaped what was related by the
others on the following day. When the Americans
had fairly entered the room which was well lighted;
a party of Mexicans entered with cards, and Set up
tables for gambling. invitations were immediately
extended to the Americans to participate in Spanish
Monte. The general impression was with our compa-
-ny, that this was a trick to entice them into
gambling; which being against the principles of a part
of the company; after consultation they concluded
to withdraw; this being perceived by the Mexicans
the doors were closed, many lights were extinguished
and the whole party immediately Siezed by the
Prefect and guards; all Mexicans were Sent out
by the Officers without arrest, and the Americans
imprisoned until the next day, when the Prefect
allowed each American his liberty who paid to

The Mexican, and mode of living (Tampico)

Tampico.

him Sixteen dollars. This was Market Money for a
month, and no doubt his highness dined on chicken
every day, giving thanks for the timely visit of the
Americans to Tampico. The citizens perceiving
this atrocious act, immediately relieved themselves of
its odium by getting up a Special Ball, tendered to the
Americans; at the Same time expressing their hopes
of the Annexation of the State of Tamaulipas
to our Union. This also put his highness in nettles,
and the Tampico Guards, paraded with fife and
drum the Streets, every two hours, of each day of
our Sojourn in the city; Large forces being
concentrated here at this time in order to prevent
a rise on the part of the citizens of this State
for independence and Annexation; of which the
President had great fears.
The Mexican, and mode of living. The complexion of the
Mexican is generally of a copper color, and in Some
cases of a bronze and black. Those of the higher
Spanish classes, are either white or nearly So.
Their hair is in nearly all cases black and
Straight much like that of the American
Indian. There is a Marked difference between
the features of the descendents of the Spaniards
and those of the ancient Aztec's.

Tampico (Dress, the Sabbath and the evening promenade)

Tampico.

The descendents of the Aztec's usually occupy the
humbler position in this country; whilst their
complexion is much darker than those of the
Spanish race. They are usually honest, polite
and hospitable; at least to be considered an unsophis-
-ticated race, whose Simplicity places them beyond
the greater vices of the higher classes. The Sabbath
is observed here as in Many other Catholic countries.
In the Morning the ceremonies of the church will be
Strictly observed; whilst the afternoon will be devoted to
games, dances or fandango's, and bull fights. etc's.
In dress they are peculiar; with Some varieties of
fashion. A tapering broad rim'd hat, called a
Sombrero, a curiously wrought buckskin jacket
over clean linnen, - figured buckskin or cloth pants,
buttoning outside from waist to the foot under the
right and left arm, being larger at the foot, and
unbuttoning as high as the knee or the pocket,
exhibiting beneath a pair of white under pants,
giving to the whole rather an agreable and airy ap-
-pearance. The Mexican ladies usually appear
in the evening promenading; they seldom wear bonnets
but a light chequered Shawl thrown loosely over
their heads, and extending gracefully upon their
shoulders. All of the better classes usually dress

Tampico (Food and prices at the restaurant)

Tampico.

clean and becoming; excepting those of the very lowest
order, who wear but little else than the primitive
dress of Nature. The cargador or porter will carry a
package, and yet appear to retain the cleanliness of his
linnen; even Servants or Mule drivers are remarkably
clean and nice in dressing themselves; at least So far
as My observation extended, I found very Many instances
of cleanliness. Many live apparently happy in
their bamboo, mud, or thatched huts. The tortelia
being their principal article of food, with panola,
&c. The tortelia is Simply finely pulverized corn,
baked in thin brittle biscuit, usually from 6 to
12 inches broad, (into wafers,) their Mode of Making
them render them very palatable. Flour is high
and bread very dear in this city. The Restaurant
is nearly the only Mode of living for the traveller
in Mexico, unless he Should provide by cooking
for himself. A cup of coffee 6 1/4. cts. or a [Medeo].
toast bread. 6 1/4. cts. a cup of excellent chocolate 12 1/2. cts.
Eggs. 12 1/2. cts. per dozen. 2 1/2. lbs. of coarse Sugar for
a quartelia or a Silver 3 cent piece. [Mellons] 3 to
12 1/2. cts. &c. They have also a Species of chocolate
for a [tallacco] (1 1/2. cts) per bowl. with Many other
articles which abound in their Markets at reason-
-able rates. Apples are diminutive and very dear.

Tampico (Miscellaneous items)

Tampico.

Of cherries, peaches pears, plumbs, grapes Strawberries, &c. I doe not
remember having Seen or heard of any in this State.
Nor doe I consider their places Supplied by the
other varieties of tropical fruits to be found in
Mexico. To an American there appears to be a
flat drab colored taste to tropical fruits.
otherwise there Might possibly be more danger
in eating them, by those from other latitudes.
As regards their pastries they are certainly entitled
to the credit of equal Skill with those in the States.
I am aware that this is saying Much in their favor,
but it must be admitted, when it cannot be disputed, that
in this respect they are highly refined.
Miscellaneous Items. Lands held in this country from old
Spanish titles is considered good, but that held from
the present Government is not admitted to be Safe.
Mr Chase, our consul, said that during his stay of 15
years at Tampico, he has known the Mexican
Government to have been changed 16 times in
the State of Tamaulipas. The high tariff's of
Mexico prevent the coarser articles of clothes from
being imported, for the cloth or linnen will not be
admitted if it does not count So Many threads to
the inch when passing the custom house.
It is necessary to have passports to enter the

The company divides (Journal and remarks at Tampico)

Tampico.

country, which will cost $2.00 in the U States. to be
countersigned by the Alcalde, or Prefect of each large
town within 48 hours of your arrival; and to obtain
a permit on leaving the Republic.
Journal. Owing to the reports respecting the country
we had to pass over on our way to San Louis Potosi.
five of our Number withdrew and proceeded by themselves
Following this, another, and an almost equal divi-
-sion of the company took place at Tampico; So
that our little company now numbered but 19 all
told; and this also embodied a Separate Mining
company of ten; the amount of whose baggage was
considered to cumbersome for the desired progress
of the former parties, who proceeded on their jour-
-ney about five days in advance of the latter.
The latter party after Selling off Some unnecessary aticles,
(as every pound to Mazatlan cost 40 cents.) made
arrangements with Mr Laffler; who resided 16.
miles up the Rio Panuco, to convey their baggage
one thousand Miles to the Pacific Coast.
Remarks. During our Stay in Tampico, many of our com-
-pany formed acquaintances with a large number of
respectable residents and natives, who freely expressed
themselves in favor of Annexation; which as we were
told was the Sentiments of the Majority of the State

Sunday at Tampico (February 25th, 1849)

Tampico.

During our stay with but little exception, the weather
has been disagreeably hot; relieved however each
afternoon by a pleasant breeze from the Gulf of Mexico.
It may be well to remark, for the benefit of Visitors,
that this country is by No Means free from the
attack of almost every Species of loathsome insect.
Such as the wood tick, flea, jigger, &c with other
varieties whose names are not in the Vocabulary.
and that owing to the climate their production
seems to be Spontaneous, whilst they abound in
legions. This is early proved by experience; and
here too, the Moscheto will press his Suit most
vigorously without refference to numbers.
Sund 25th. To day the Priest has extended an invitation
to our company to attend Service; to which a part
of us complied; we found however but few natives
present. The church was handsomely decorated
within; but the exterior had an antiquated
appearance, with no peculiar feature.
Two Marked features of Tampico, before omitted,
are their Schools, and Musical black birds,
of which unfortunately I did not learn the name.
But as there is a Similarity in their notes,
there can be no harm in Speaking of them
together. as on the one hand the whole city

Ascending the Panuco (Monday, March 5th, 1849)

Ascending the Panuco.

was nearly at all times enlivened by the universal
caw! caw! and Kee! Kee!! of the Black Bird, So on
the other the School house music greeted the ear
in various directions, like the cry of murdther.
Mond. March 5th. Weather still quite warm, accompanied by a pleasant
breeze each afternoon. Moschetoes insufportable.
Vide View No 9. Having all our baggage in portable order,
and our arrangements completed with the Laffler's,
for our transportation to the Pacific, we embarked
in Small River boats, for their Rancho 16 miles
up the Panuco River. We glided pleasantly along
with but little to Mar the pleasure of the trip.
and arrived there during the Same evening.
The Panuco is a deep, placid, and pretty River,
which meanders far off in the direction of San
Louis Potosi. and is Said to be navigable for
for a distance of 150 miles, for boats of light
draught, though no Steamers have yet ascended
it far. Birds of varied plumage, enliven its banks
whilst the wild Aligator Smiles at you, when
passing its dense foliage. The lofty Palm tree
now and then reminds you of the tropics, and
the Sly nip of a Moscheto, proves it Sensibly.
Before Sun Set we were comfortably located at the
Laffler Hacienda, which is considered the best establishmet
on the River.

Laffler's Hacienda (Ancient remains across the river)

Laffler's Hacienda.

Vide View No.10. This place is located on the eastern bank of
the Panuco River, being Surrounded by a nearly level
country; on the opposite Side of the River. and at a
distance of 10 miles, may be seen, the Mountains
which are interesting for their ancient remains;
We were informed that a city at a distant period
occupied fifteen Square miles of its Summet.
And that the remains of walls, various imple-
-ments, and immages; had been repeatedly found
in their excavations; and particularly in their
explorations. We were also informed that by the
removal of a large flat Stone, a Vault was dis-
-covered, containing an immage, and another Slab
at the bottom marked with Hyeroglyphics; it was
supposed that another vault extended beneath the
former, and Some preparations were being made to
remove the lower block, which had not yet been
accomplished. A part of a Monument has already
been removed from these remains. The antiquaties
to be found here are said to resemble those found
by Stephens & Catherwood, in Youcatan; we be-
-lieve these have been described by Norman of
New Orleans. Beyond these Mountains and far to
the South, two lofty peaks, located in the vicinity
of Vera Cruz. May occasionally be seen.

Laffler's Hacienda (The estate, the mountain and the deer)

Laffler's Hacienda.

The Laffler estate is said to include over 50 Square
miles. which they purchased Some 14 years back, for
$800.00. being a family of 3 brothers who removed origin-
-ally from the State of Ohio. They have Many Servants,
an immense Stock, and raise grain of various kinds
with Sugar cane, Coffee, Bannanas, &c; they being the
only persons whoom I remember to have Seen making
brick in this Section of the State. Mr Thompson, one
of our party, obtaining a guide, penetrated the Chapparell &c
of the mountain, to the ancient walls and remains before
mentioned, which he described as being highly interesting.
Being also interested in obtaining Sketches of them; at a
later period, I Set out with two Mexicans for the Same
Mountain, but after Much toil and getting entangled in the
underbrush, we gave up the persuit and returned, finding
that we had lost too Much of the day in our Wanderings
to be available, Should we even reach it. Mr Thompson
had the good fortune of returning at Sun set, with a Deer,
which he Shot in the forrest beyond the River.
We were Much annoyed by clouds of voracious Moschetoes,
and other exceedingly repugnant insects, which
infest Most of the undergrowth and weeds of the country.
At the Hacienda our dinners were of the best
that the country could afford, including a variety of
new dishes which were prepared in a Superior Manner.

The Pack Train (Thursday, March 8th, 1849)

The Pack Train. &c.

The 6th. and 7th. of March were chiefly occupied in weighing and
packing our baggage for the journey to Mazatlan.
one hundred and fifty pounds per Mule being the limit.
Thurs.d 8th. Vide View No.11. Day clear and warm. Having all things
in travelling order; with our guide Don Francisco in
command, as director of the order of March, and
interpreter, four Servants, a commissary, &c, and having
also loaded our fire arms; and feeling well and fully
equipped - we commenced our line of march,
at 10. A.M. from the Hacienda; and Soon found
ourselves, crossing a level but Varigated prarie,
bound - Westward ho!! in a lively State of mind.
The first large city to which we now looked forward
with interest, was that of San Louis Potosi. distant
as variously estimated from 350 to 400. miles according
to the rout. The appearance of our company completely
equipped with guns, pistols, knives, and Swords, was-
anything but pleasant for the contemplation of guerrillas
Some of whoom we anticipated Meeting by the Way.
A part of the day we Marched upon an open
prarie with occasional clusters of timber in the
distance, and a Small allowance of vegitation.
Passing a Small lake, we saw a large quantity of
wild game which were easily approached. Our animals
travelled well, with the exception of an occasional

Trip Overland (March 8th and 9th, 1849)

Trip Overland.

Stampede the customary result of a first days March.
upon the prarie large droves of cattle and horses were
seen roving at large. In the after part of the day, we
arrived at the woodland hills, where we obtained a
Small allowance of very bad Water; the road now
becomes an indifferent Mule trail and continues thus
without the possibility of being travelled by a Vehicle.
During the evening a return caravan from Potosi, passed
us, raising a cloud of dust, which with the hot Sun
and want of good water was almost insufportable.
We closed the day by camping beside a bamboo cabin on
the bank of the Panuco. Freoles (black beans) with
coffee, and tortelias, formed our evening Meal, whilst our
blankets were Spread upon the open ground, and a
guard of two Set for every two hours of the night.
Frid. 9th. Day clear and hot; proceeded on our way by daylight.
Our trail was exceedingly dusty, winding variously
over hill, dale, and brushy planes, of no peculiar inter-
-est. distance for the day 9 leagues (or about 27 miles)
besides having no dinner and a Short allowance of very bad Water.
Again we anchored at a bamboo cabin near the Panu-
-co River; and having been put on allowance for our
Supper, in consequence of the extreme poverty of the
ranchos, we again Spread our blankets in the open
air, and retired after bathing in the Panuco.

Palms & Banyans (Saturday, March 10th, 1849)

Palms & Banyans.

Sat 10th. Day clear & hot. On March by daylight. distance. 7. leagues.
Vide View No.12. Travelled most of this day over a level country.
occasionly interspersed with several interesting Varieties
of the Palm; with the occasional undergrowth of the
younger palms, affording a pleasant Shade and a
very agreable relief to the scenery. At times the
palmetto was seen clustered abundantly; this latter is
the plant from which the palm fans are Manufactured.
This Species of the younger palms (No.12.) occur in clusters
at intervals of Some length, the Shade of which we frequently
greeted with pleasure.
Vide View No.13. Again the Scene changes to the Spreading Banyan,
and the lofty Palm; where linked arm in arm the Majestic
forrest Spreads its dense foliage above us. Here Nature
displays Sublimity and beauty combined, and the artists
pencil fails to perform its desirable task. The Bayan
now becomes the Most prominent tree of the forrest.
whilst the Palm is often seen towering above it, being
grafted within the Same trunk, and thus rising
together from one firm base. This Banyan, is
said to be of the Same Species of those found in
India, and Sometimes called the Ancient Fig tree
of the Indies. From its tortuous branches, Many
ligaments or cords descend to the earth, and after
taking root again ascend in the direction of its origin.

Journey among the Banyans (Palms, vines and parrots on the trail)

Journey among the Banyans &c.

The bark upon the limbs of the Banyan, is Smothe
and of a greyish white color, Much resembling that of
the Buttonwood found in the States. So very crooked
and tortuous are these limbs, that they cannot fail to
attract the especial attention of every travellor,
whilst their dense foliage affords a cool and Sombre
Shade pleasing and always highly acceptable.
During the day, we also passed occasional clusters
of the lofty Palm, with Many varieties of undergrowth
again the Younger palms, formed their acceptable arch-
-way above our winding trail, and lent romance to
the agreeable Shades; from these we would
again immerge upon the open plain; and thence
to the nocturnal Shades of the forrest, where
massive and dense clusters of Vine, Shut out half
the light of day. Once again and we are upon the
open rolling hills, next through brushy planes, thence
to the palm orchards, and last by the Scattering
Shades of the oak, which closed the journey of the
day, being in camp; once more on the banks of the Panu-
-co River. Parrots and other birds of gay plumage en-
-livened a part of the journey of the day, and at times
they were exceedingly numerous, and Noisy. We observed
also that in particular Sections of the country, the
grass, had been burned off in extensive tracts.

Tropical Scenes (Sunday, March 11th, 1849)

Tropical Scenes.

Vide View No.14.
Once More after a refreshing bath in the river, - the
blankets of our [weary] party were Spread upon the open
ground, and a guard of four (as usual,) Set for every two
hours of the night. The Moon rose over the Meandering
and placid waters of the Panuco, and a gentle breeze
played at times in the overarching foliage which
bordered the river Margin; - reminding us of those Many
pleasant evenings long past in our native land.
Sun.d 11th. Day clear & hot. on March by day light. 9 leagues for the day.
Vide View No.15. The Scenery of this day was Much diversified
with Chapparel, palm forrests, hills, plains, and gullies.
We found the water to be still unpalatable, the trail
exceedingly dusty, and the Sun excessively hot, whilst
travelling at long intervals through the chapparel.
Again the Palm tree afforded us a relief, whilst
always reminding us that these were the tropics.
[Vi]de View No.16. At times the Palm is found Scattering, at
others closely grouped, varying in height from 40. to 90
feet; which as their trunks posess no limbs, gives
to them a loftier appearance, than they really have.
This Species of the Palm when Scattering afford but
little available Shade. An American unaccustom-
-ed to Such Scenes, will naturally, at first, look
upon them with interest. View us winding our
way in merry felicity amid the Palms, with doff'd

Tropical Scenes (The train on the march, March 11th)

Tropical Scenes. etc.

coats, and red and blue flannel conspicuous; with arms
reflecting their glisting stars, from a mid day's Sun.
whilst the arrearos or mule drivers are constantly
ejaculating their mulah!! in order to urge the donkey
to greater Speed. In the advance, you See our guide
and interpreter, riding akimbo, with his cigareto
or paper cigar, as unconcerned as the total absence
of mind could well be; followed by a dusty train
American travellors, whose interest in the passing
Scenes never elicits one intellectual idea from his
brain. At intervals on the way, dense forrests
of the Banyan reappear; immerging from which
we again open upon the rolling hills, or plaines
of chapparell. On this days March we Saw sever-
-al Mounds, they were not however of very large
dimensions, being located in the Banyan forrests.
We arrived at the River [Tamowin] at 3. P.M. and
after freighting our baggage over in Small boats,
finished the day by Swimming our horses, and
mules, to the opposite bank; near a respectable ranch
Vide View No.17. At this rancho we encamped for the
night, where after purchasing a calf for three
dollars, we prepared for an evening's repast.
At this place, circumstances led us to believe that
the guerrillas were preparing to give us trouble.

The Pass (Monday, March 12th, 1849)

The Pass.

in consequence of which we placed extra guard, and
concluded to resume our journey after Midnight.
Mond 12th. We began our March at 1. O. clock, by Moonlight
in order to reach the pass of the Siera Madre
by Sun rise; by night our course wound prin-
-cipally through extensive forrests of oak.
Vide View No. 18. At Sun rise we arrived at the pass,
having travelled 12 miles by the light of the Moon.
On the eastern declivity of the Mountain are warm and
Sulphur Springs of reputed Medicinal properties.
In parts of the pass it became necessary for us to lead
our horses with extreme care, whilst we passed over-
dangerous precipices of high and [shelving] rocks. It is
a remarkable trait of the Mexican pack Mules; to
go unharmed and with great precision through
high and dangerous places, bearing patiently their
berthens of freight, where Man fears, and treads
with precaution. Descending from the precipice we
travelled up a narrow, level, and crooked Valley, winding
with Similar indications to that of the bed of Some
ancient river, crossing diagonally the Summet of
the Mountain. At intervals rocky bluffs appeared,
whilst here and there the steep Sides of the Mountains
were well Supplied with timber, principally that of the oak.
Deer and other wild game abound here, we having Started

Limestone Section (Caves and an old town in the forest)

Limestone Section. &c.

up five of the former, led us to believe that the Deer was
plentiful in these Mountains. It was in this place,
from report, that we anticipated the Guerrilla, where it
is certain they could have advantages; but though our
guns were repeatedly fired, none Made their appearance.
Having crossed this Mountain we descended upon an un-
-dulating country Still apparently uninhabited, though
posessing often a good Soil, and in Many places valuable timber:
In places the Limestone rock was abundant, and Small
entrances to Caves to be frequently Seen. One in particular
attracted our attention; being about 10 feet in diameter
and descending perpendicularly to a great debth; around
its Mouth, and bending over, this dark vortex, were clustered
oaks of a respectable age. To day, also, I found by the
way, Some fragments of walls, the evidence of an ancient
town, now in the Midst of a forrest; Whilst the Revd
D. B. Woods, and myself were travelling together, about a mile in
advance of our company, and crossing a Small Stream, in a lone
Spot, five Mexicans presented themselves, in a very
Suspicious Manner, with clubs. they immediately came
near to us, and followed in our rear, talking together
Suspiciously. We drew out our fire arms, requesting them
to keep off, when our company came in Sight and they
left us for the Woods again. We were fully
Satisfied as to their intentions.

Villa de Valles (Tuesday, March 13th, 1849)

Villa de Valles.

In the afternoon we arrived at the town of Villa di Valles, or as
the natives pronounce it veye-de-viyah. Here we found Mr Grant's
division of the old Camargo company just leaving for
Potosi. This being the place where our animals had to be
Shod for the Mountains, we delayed consequently one day,
pitching over tents upon the plaza, or public Square.
Tues.y 13th. Day clear & hot. At a restaurant, I obtained a bowl of
coffee, 2 boiled eggs, and bread, for 1. Rial. or 12 1/2. cts.
Here Milk, eggs, freoles, tortelias, oranges, bannanas, &c.
may be obtained cheap, excepting Coffee, an article of luxury.
Vide View No.19. On the plaza, there Stands the remains of an
old catholic church; the cupola of which is yet in a
tolerable State of preservation; and in it are Suspended
3 antiquated bells, whilst Cactus and other Vegitables
with luxurient grass adorn its aged brow as freely as upon
Terra Firma. It now Stands in ruins. To the right of it,
is erected a bamboo building, thatched with palmetoes, and
occupied as the Modern chappel. One of our company was
informed that this little edifice posessed more wealth,
than we would suppose from its external appearance.
Mr Laffler arrived with most of the Shoes for our animals,
the Smith was according employed with all possible
dispatch, by tying together the feet of each animal
and tumbling them over like brick bats, on the Whole-
-sale principle; the inside of his work shop being

First View of the Colorado Mountains (Sketches from the cupola at Villa di Valles)

First View of the Colorado Mountains.

out of doors, he had consequently a Spacious estab-
-lishment. His bellows began by playing old hundred;
whilst the hammers - struck up - "hae get along - come
along jo!" and the donkeys, corralled, joined in their
Saw Mill Notes of lamentation. The price here of
Shoeing was from 3 to $5. per animal, So that the
present excitement is easily accounted for.
Vide Views Nos. 20. & 21. From the cupola of the plaza ruins,
I Sketched a panoramic view of the Colorado Mount-
-ains, as Seen at a distance of 12 Miles. Our town in the
foreground is located upon the high bluff of a river, and overlook[s]
the valley which on the opposite Side is at least 75 feet
lower than the Site of Villa di Valles; this gives us a
commanding view of a large district of country to the Westward.
The forrests of the valley include almost every variety of tree,
common to Mexico; and notwithstanding the Soil is good,
it is Surprising to find but little or almost - no attention paid
to the improvement of this noble valley, whilst the
river affords a large Supply of water for Machinery, which
could be put in opperation at Many valuable sites.
Supposing that a Market on the Gulf of Mexico was
had for the products of this valley, with others adjacent,
and the Mineral wealth of the Colorado's. there would
be an excellent intervening country of 110. miles to Tampico.
for the construction of a rail way, So near a level that

The Liberal Priest (Dinner with the parish priest)

The Liberal Priest.

with the exception of the pass of the Siera Madre, there would
be little or no trouble comparitively in its construction
to this point, and I think around Siera [Alta], and through
the great pass, to San Louis Potosi. In Yankeeland this region
would have been long ago teeming with luxuries, activity,
and passages to commerce, and the herds of wild
wolves, which now infest it, be driven to the Mountain
Shades. Just as I was about completing this View, the
priest of the parish, ascended the cupola and rang the 3
bells, for the citizens to kneel in prayers; and all to be
seen in the streets were accordingly upon their knees;
observing this I closed my book and pencil; but the
priest who appeared Much pleased; beckoned for me
to continue which I did; and he kept them upon their knees.
until I had completed my Sketch; when we descended
together. In the dark passage of the cupola, he embraced
and kissing me said, "Americans good, - come dine with
me". to which I complied. Through Mr Laffler, also
a guest, he expressed freely his Sentiments to me.
hoping that his country Might one day be as free, and
as happy as ours, which he Most ardently desired.
and that to him the Sight of an American was happiness.
He is undoubtedly a Man of liberal and generous feelings.
His table was supplied with wine and the comforts of the
Market, Served up in a change of eight or ten plates.

Departure for the Colorado Mountains (March 13th and 14th, 1849)

Departure for the Colorado Mountains.

many of which were to me entirely new, yet excellent.
There is an air of pleasantness and Simplicity in this place,
which has imprinted many agreable associations upon our
minds for So Short an acquaintance. A romantic river to
bathe in, its fine scenery, friendship of the Priest, and
citizens, its fruits; pleasant location, good water, and
Simplicity of Manners, all objects of notice to the casual
travellor. At 4 P.M. we left for the Mountains.
as we forded the river, a large concourse of natives
Stood upon the village bluff, and with hats off, Salu-
-ted us each with - "Adios [Senior]". "adios", which is "to
god we commend you". We travelled 10 miles this evening
and camped in the forrest two Miles from the Mountains.
Having lost after Sun set a Satchell containing My Sketch book. &c.
with a cloth coat, belonging to Mr Sayre.
We returned before daylight two Miles, and Succeeded in finding
them. Our camp fires this evening presented an inter-
-esting aspect, with Sentinels parading about the
sleepers, who were Snugly rolled up in their blankets.
and Surrounding the fires. Before day light the black
Wolves Surrounded us in Such numbers that nothing
Short of firing at them could keep them from troubling
our camp; not being dangerous, but exceedingly bold.
Wed.d 14th. Day clear & hot. Arose at daylight, and after taking our
morning's coffee, proceeded on our way to the Mountains.

Mountain Trails (Climbing the Colorado Mountains)

Mountain Trails. &c.

As we ascended, many Small Mounds, and parts of old
walls were visible in several places, upon which there
was a heavy growth of large timber. From this a side
trail leads (down to the right) to a valuable Spring of good water.
Our trail ascends the Mountain by Steep and rugged
Steps of about three Miles in length, and nearly the
Same in its Western descent; the whole scenery was Wild
and Much broken into cliffs, ravines, & chasms;
whilst in Some places the ascent was exceedingly dificult.
In many places the travel of animals has worn with
their feet, a Succession of holes frequently a foot or
more each, in debth; and whilst climbing they
usually Step from one hole to another in the rocks.
We ask none to believe this, except those who
have been in the Mountains of Mexico, for it
Seems incredible that Mules and donkeys packed
with freight Should climb Mountains So Steep, de-
-pending for Safety upon holes worn for miles in the
Solid rock. Having overcome our first difficulties,
we descended into a romantic cove, by a long, Steep,
and rugged (zig zag) trail leading over and around
hills, in full view of Mountains which ranged off
at random in almost every direction. Descending
Somewhat during the remainder of the day. until
we reached the Second great valley of the

Among the Colorado Mountains (The hacienda of Peadra Gorda)

Among the Colorado Mountains.

Colorado Mountains. Here we camped for the evening at
a respectable Hacienda, called "Peadra Gorda".
Vide Views Nos. 22. & 23. Before Sun Set, in company with Mr Sayre, I
ascended a Small Mountain two Miles South east of the Rancho.
and Sketched the Second great range of the Colorado Mountains.
In the immediate foreground was a flourishing forest of the oak.
next followed an apparent clearing, of what, May have one
day been covered by a dense forrest of Palms, which now occupy
the middle ground, only, between us and the Mountains.
The Mountains appeared rugged, and barren, through which the
great pass was distinctly visible. At the little lake is
located the Hacienda of an Alcalde, of wealth, and affable
manners. As we descended, the Setting Sun threw upon the
back ground the heavy Mountain Shadows, and lent a
passing beauty to them transcending the pencil of the Artist.
Our course on the following day would have been through the
great pass to Rio Verdy: but from the advice of the Alcalde,
we changed our route to a More northerly direction; in
consequence of the pass being Strongly fortified by the
guerillas. The advance company having gone that way
met with a Siezure, delay, and were now in a danger-
-ous condition, though afterwards liberated.
Thurs.d 15th. Day clear & hot. Passing the Palm forrest we ascen-
-ded the valley to the north; and by the way Met an old
fortification; thence again through various Species of the

Wild Scenes & Curiosity (A volcanic amphitheatre in the mountains)

Wild Scenes, & Curiosity.

Palm, until we forded a bold river of cold and crystal
water, when we began our ascent of the Colorado's.
Here the rocks were all Strictly of Volcanic origin,
thrown high in rugged Masses like rude gothic ma-
-sonry. It was romantic but a Severe task in the
ascent, and More difficult and trying upon our pa-
-tience than any we had yet Met with.
Vide View No.24. On this route I had the pleasure of discover-
-ing an extensive volcanic amphitheatre of great
magnitude; it appeared to be about a half Mile in
diameter, having a perpendicular debth of about
three hundred feet. There was Sufficient timber and
land below for a Small farm, with the appearance of
water, but no apparent way of descending to it, except
by rope. I cannot Say with a certainty that it is an
extinct crater; but Should rather Suppose that it fell
from its original level by eruptions beneath, although
lava May be Seen adhering to a portion of the walls,
in rude fantastic forms. I first discovered it by a
Slight blue mist, at a distance, and thus attracted the
attention and visit of Several of our company. Our
mountain Scenery to day, has been a continuation of
exceedingly wild and Much broken Volcanic rocks. In
consequence of our rapid march, I had no further time to
Sketch, besides the trail (if it Might so be called) was

The Colorado & San Nicholas (Friday, March 16th, 1849)

The Colorado. & San Nicholas.

anything but agreeable; yet in places we passed through
Scenes of Such wild magnificence, that I felt Much desire
to Sketch them, but was too Much fatigued to doo So.
These Summet Mountains, were completely barren, during Most
of the day's March; not posessing as Much as a tree or a
Shrub, except an occasional cactus, where a Small
puttance of Soil Might be found; and unlike anything
we had yet Seen in the country in point of complete
barrenness. At dark we descended into a valley, and by
eleven o clock reached the village of San Nicholas, where
we encamped on the plaza; having this day, by the infor-
-mation of our guide, travelled a distance of 65 miles.
Frid. 16th. Vide View. No.25. Before leaving I Sketched a view of the
church and plaza of San Nicholas, of the Mountains. The
church has, an antiquated appearance, and the remarkable
trait of a dissimilarity of windows and doors. In the
village were Many neat dwellings; whilst its Scenery
was picturesque. It is located immediately at the base
of a lofty Mountain, which rises from the Western Sub-
-urbs of the village, with a prepossessing grandeur.
Vegitation, Shrubbery, and fruit trees were in full bloom at
this place, blending their rich colors with its beautiful
Scenery. Yet how Much to be pitied is Man, with all
of Such endowments of nature; when the fell assassin
prowls nightly around his little paradise.

Crossing the Colorado's (Leaving San Nicholas, March 16th)

Crossing the Colorado's.

The evening of our arrival in this village, the inhabitants were
much alarmed, as they were expecting the Momentary attack
of the Guerillas, who had frequently troubled them; but
after ascertaining the nature of our visit, they Solicited
our protection in the most pressing terms. Poor fellows,
we felt heartily Sorry for them, but could not delay for Such
an object. On leaving the Alcalde ordered the citizens to appear
on the street, where Standing in numbers they Saluted us
with a melancholly "Adios." long to be remembered, with
Sincere regret, and the hope that happier days May yet
be theirs, when the deeds of the assassin Shall have ceased.
We left the Village at 8. O. clock, and ascended the neighboring
Mountain. Our road became again a passage in the work
of extreme patience, for the ascent was Steep, difficult,
and of long duration. For a long time we passed over rocky
mountains, composed chiefly of volcanic Schorae, which
often presented a cavernous and gloomy appearance.
Vide View No.26. In Many places the Summet Vallies were
composed of rude Masses of dark and broken Volcanic
rocks, with here and there patches of Stunted Vegitation.
peculiar to these Mountains. Strange Maguays,
a few palmetoes, and a fruit growing upon the ground,
in Shape resembling a pine apple, being twice as large,
and filled with Small white nuts, resembling the
chesnut. We also Saw a remarkable tree, as

Corn Valley (Valle de Maise)

Corn Valley.

in the Sketch, bearing flowers of alternate red and white.
each flower resembling a large hank of red or white
Silk, being usually from 4 to 6 inches in length.
Vide view No. 27. Descending the wilder portions of the Moun-
-tains, in the after part of the day, we came into the
Scrub oak hills, previous, to reaching the valley of
corn, the hills of which border the background of this view.
Vide View No. 28. We have now descended into the valley of corn,
or "Valle de Maise", which is skirted on both Sides by
hills of Stunted Vegitation and Scrub oak timber.
It is from a half to three quarters of a Mile in width, and
sectioned off by good Stone walls into corn lots, now in
the stubble, belonging to various owners resing here and
elsewhere. The Soil is good, and corn thrives well on it.
Far on the northern horizon, rises a Mountain, Standing
out in bold relief, which we Supposed to be an extinct volcano.
Whilst crossing this valley two guerillas appeared, one of
whoom addressed our guide, which he translated as follows.
"I am a guerilla !! a captain of 500 now in yonder Mountains
which to day you have passed. I know your mission,
and wish neither to harm or be molested by you. I
came among you to know, if it is your mind to camp
this night in Tortugas?" Being told that we were un-
-certain of our location, he replied. - "Then fire your guns,
if perchance our Signal light should be Seen from yonder

Guerillas (A night at Tortugas)

Guerillas.

mountain's peak; that we may defer our attack upon
the town". Being further interogated by our guide as to their
motives for following such a life, he promptly answered. "Once
I was a respectable Merchant, and the Same was the case with
others in our band, until the villianous political feuds, had
brought misery and distraction into our families. We are now
resolved to visit with the Same Mercy all in our power who
who have thus ruined us, and those who follow the party".
From their own Statement, this guerilla party, were organized
for retaliation upon the weak and defenseless who upheld
the goverment of those then in power, as well as upon those
who exerted it upon them. The village of Tortugas being
under the rule of their enemies, they had therefore resolved
upon plundering it by night; having arrived at the village
we camped in a brush School house, where we were visited
by many of the inhabitants, with their Alcalde who Sought
our protection against their dreaded enemy. During the night
many of them brought their blankets, and mats, and camped near us.
Being on guard, with two others, - we discovered about 2. O.
clock the Signal fire upon the Summet of a neighboring
Mountain. Soon after which the terrible Sound of the
rushing of horses where heard coming through the Valley
of corn; no More time could be lost, - we fired in rapid
Succession; upon which they wheel'd and retired for
the night; this struck terror into the villagers, who

Tortugas; Barrens, Stampede (Saturday, March 17th, 1849)

Tortugas; Barrens, Stampede &c

thronged around us, for their protection. Our first impressions
were, that they would enter the village in Spite of us, but
being well fortified we resolved to Maintain our position.
Vide View No.29. Represents a part of Tortugas, with the ruins of an old
church probably destroyed in Some their revolutionary events.
Vide View No.30. This also represents a Southern view of another part
of Tortugas. Upon the Summet of one of the hills, a large cross is
erected, and near it a Small cemetary. Opposite, and eastward,
is the peak where the Signal light of the guerillas appeared,
at the base in a pleasant little valley is located the principal
Spring for the Supply of the villagers; the hills are
Sparcely timbered with Scrub oak; and Scattering groups of chapparel.
Fruit, Eggs, and Provisions appeared to be plentiful and cheap.
Sat 17th. Day clear & warm; here again the inhabitants turned
out to bid us a friendly "Adios". From this we ascended upon
a rugged and barren wilderness; thence into a romantic pass,
descending upon an undulating & thinly settled country; the
Soil of which was totally worthless, being rocky & Sandy, giving
Support only to different Species of the thorny Cactus,
until reaching a bold Stream of water, beside which was
a village, partly Surrounded by high cactus, of a strange
appearance, rising perpendicular without limb, from 15 to 25
feet. On arriving, we found that Most of the inhabitants
had fled into the hills, at our first appearance, when des-
-cending from the Mountains, the Alcalde and a few of the

The Desert (A mud meson and a well)

The Desert &c.

inhabitants remained to treat with us, which was Soon done, and
watermellons were Massacreed to the Satisfaction of both parties.
Poor fellows, how often doo they look to the Mountains with
fear and trembling; Many who would be honest, and content with
a little, cannot feel themselves the possessors of anything.
We saw but little timber during the days March, travelling
the ballance of the day over an undulating country, bearing
principally wild cactus, prickley pears, and short scrubby Palms,
ranging from 4 to 15 feet in height; and chiefly among the
interstices of the rocks. The water has now become Scarce and
exceedingly unpalatable. Towards evening clouds of dust envel-
-oped us, with a hot Sun, and a slight breeze.
Vide View No. 31. Before Sun set we encamped beneath a cluster of
Scrub oak trees beside a forlorn mud building called a "Meson"
or public house; but being hostile to us, we had no admittance.
The country here is Sandy, worthless, and forbidding; being a
desert portion of Mexico. A large old fashioned rope
and pulley well is located opposite to the dwelling, Surround-
-ing which upon the plain, were Many Small mud huts.
At Sun set, about 40 Mexican Women came with their
earthen jars to the well, and returned carrying them upon
their heads, filled with water, Much resembling the
customs of Egypt; whilst they viewed us with no little
curiosity, though by no means friendly; here our provisions
were Slender, and what we obtained, was well paid for.

Varieties on the Highlands (Sunday, March 18th, 1849)

Varieties on the Highlands.

Sund 18th. Day clear & hot. proceeded on our journey at 6. A.M. desirous to
get into a more agreeable portion of the country.
Vide View No. 32. We travelled most of the day over diversified plains of
Limestone, with occasional Stunted Palms, Maguays, Cactus,
and occasional groups of timber; and in one instance a pretty
Scene of cedar groves, extending thus for a distance of Several Miles.
Vide View No. 33. At another time we travelled Some distance through
a tract of country covered with the regular Gum Arabic tree;
upon and beneath which the gum was found in abundance.
At times the ground was of a Snowy white complexion, having
a Saline taste; Epsom Salts in great abundance, covered the
ground in long Sections. Caverns, beneath, Were frequently evident
from the hollow Sound following our horses, whilst travelling
over them; at times echoing with a deep and peculiar tone;
now and than wide chasms opend beside the road, with
here and there deep pits leading to caverns beneath.
Timber generally formed in clusters, whilst the country
had conspicuous marks of Volcanic origin. Upon either
Side of this wide valley of the highlands, Mountains
of a wild and rugged appearance were generally in View.
Vide View No.34. In this valley we also passed a Small Saline
lake, which was discharged by a bold Stream of water,
so unpalatable that neither ourselves or animals could
use it. This Stream though large, after running a short dis-
-tance disappeared beneath the Surface of the earth.

Varieties on the Highlands (Monday, March 19th, 1849)

Varieties on the highlands.

At times "prarie" grass appeared with the evidence of a lux-
-urient growth, though at this time parched by the heat of
the Sun, whilst occasional clusters of the oak, afforded a
pleasing relief to it. At 4. P.M. we arrived at a pleasant
little village, where we camped for the night. Having this
day lost one of our company Mr Sherman; who missed the road in consequence of
his Seeking game at the lake; - a party with a native guide
was Sent in persuit of him, who found him, with the loss
of one day; returning with him to the next town on the 2nd
night. In consequence of this delay we travelled less rapidly. At this
village there was great facilities for bathing, which we
readily appropriated; but owing to the elevation of the country
we found the water quite cold. We also found the nights Suf-
-ficiently cool, for the addition of blankets, notwithstanding
the mid day Sun was unpleasantly warm.
Mon.d 19th. Day clear & warm; On march by 7. A.M. There is a Similarity
between this days travel, and the Scenes of yesterday, but
in the after part of the day, Scattering Palms of a Stunted
growth, with a great abundance of Many Species of
thorny Cactus formed the Staple products of the country
through which we journeyed; towards evening we came
out from the cactus hills upon a pleasant, fertile and culti-
-vated valley, on the west Side of which is the town of San
Juan De [Ceretus]; or "St John's of the little hills"; were we camped
for the night in a good old fashioned style of the country farm house.

Legible: handwritten records, typed and searchable